a lovely little trip to Guatemala and back.
Easter weekend was a big weekend for us. It was our spring break, and to celebrate the fact that we had Thursday-Monday off from school we chose to go on a grand old adventure. We had been planning it for months - a trip to Guatemala. Two days at the lago de Atitlan, and two days in Antigua. By the time Thursday morning arrived, we were all quivering with anticipation at the thought of a weekend of new surroundings and adventures.
Of course, luck would have it that my alarm would not go off on that morning, but I was able to scramble to get ready. We hopped a bus bright and early to the Belize/Guatemala border where we were supposed grab our chartered van. The minute we stepped off the bus we were surrounded by men asking us to trade our money into quetzales. It was frantic and a bit stressful. We went from there into the border lines were, because we are white we were ripped off and forced to pay 2 BZ to get through the border. Another lovely Belizean scam.
We finally made it through and I'm proud to say that now my passport has two stamps - one from Belize and one from Guatemala yay! Our bus was waiting with our bus driver Alfredo right outside of the building, and we hopped in with all our bags and tried to organize ourselves quickly, and then we were off on our 16 hour drive.
The drive was broken up with a few stops for gas (where small children tried to sell us food through the windows - they had delish ice cream and MANGOES!) for food, and of course for bathroom breaks. The drive was gorgeous, and it was up these windy hills around the time it got dark so we felt as though we were on a roller coaster and we could see the large dark spot that was the lake below us. It looked like a massive black hole surrounded by tiny sparkling lights; it was beautiful. After about 15 long, exhausting hours we finally reached the town on the edge of the lake where we were supposed to take the water taxi. It took us nearly an hour to get through the town because they were having an easter procession, and we got caught behind it. But the town, Flores, was very pretty so it wasn't a bad thing. The water taxi in itself was another experience: we were so low in the water with everyone in the boat that i could reach my hand over and touch the lake. Had we had a hole we would have been wet up to our chests. The boat certainly struggled to pull us through the water, but eventually we got to the hotels. 5 were staying at a hip place called la Iguana, and the rest of us were at an eco-hotel called Hotel Islaverde. Both were great, but I fell in love with our place for sure.
Hotel Islaverde was set into a hill, with a beautiful lawn (that we could hardly see in the dark) and a lit path up through a garden to the room. The rooms were gorgeous and had these beautiful porches with hanging flowers and cushions. I felt like I was in a honeymoon brochure. It was amazing. That night we ate a delicious organic dinner and despite that fact that it was late, we all ate everything they put in front of us, and then many of us immediately went to bed.
The next morning I woke early and went out on the porch and sat quietly, watching the birds come up to feed off the flowers. I saw a few hummingbirds and it was awesome - I felt like I couldn't be in a real place, it had to be a dream. Breakfast was yet another delicious organic plate of eggs, fresh fruit, tomatoes, toast, and potatoes. And REAL coffee!!! Something Belize does not understand. We spent the day swimming and laying out in the grass, relaxing and playing cribbage. That evening we went over to the other hotel La Iguana for dinner, and it was a yummy 3 course meal that was right around the time they had happy hour, so everyone was very happy and chatty.
It was a great night, and the next morning was similar to the last. I got another delicious breakfast, walked down to the edge of the lake to watch the sun rise, and spent my last few hours lounging before we left at noon. We had another car ride, but this one was only about 3-4 hours of amazing scenery as we sped down the mountains we had climbed in the dark, taking in all the great views we hadn't seen the night before. Once we hit Antigua the atmosphere certainly changed. There were more buildings, and cobblestone streets, and we couldn't wait to be out of the van. We were split up between 5 hostels, so it took a while before everyone was unloaded, but eventually we were all out and getting settled, with plans to meet as a large group the next morning.
I was with Emily, Kalyn, and D at Hostel Quachoch, and we unpacked and then took off to explore the city. We watched an easter funeral procession (by now it was the saturday before easter) and it was very moving. The streets were filled with people, floats, and heavy incense smoke, and we were all holding candles on the sidewalks as these men in black cloaks walked by carrying these large metal canisters for the smoke and flames. The floats were carried around these beautiful carpets made of flowers called alfombras. Each float showed a different image of christ dying and being buried, and the last float was a HUGE golden float with mary magdalene on it, carried by about 45 young women. This float went over the alfombras, destroying them as a celebratory rite, and people ran forward to pick up the pieces of the destroyed flowers. I was able to get a few flower petals that I pressed in my notebook. After the procession we didn't do much else, walked around for a bit, got a bit lost on the way home, met a nice couple staying at our hostel, and went to bed with plans to get up early.
For breakfast we had mangoes, and then we went to do a bit of shopping before meeting up with the group. The people at the market are so stressful, they beg you to haggle with them, and as you walk away they are still shouting lower and lower prices at you. It's slightly terrifying. We went from the small market, to a bigger market, and then back to meet with the group, where we found out that one of the members of our group, Margaret, had broken her arm and didn't know how she'd done it. They went off the the hospital to get it looked at, and the rest of us split up again. It was an exhausting day for our group, we spent most of the day shopping and touring the city, had a delicious lunch of guacamole, and watched another easter procession - though on actual Easter Sunday there were fewer processions than the previous days. Unfortunately Good Friday was the biggest day and we had missed it. Dinner involved yet again more guacamole, and we went to bed early again, but managed to get lost a second time on the way home.
The next morning we left bright and early, and a had a similar ride home, broken up with gas stops and pee breaks. We gave two girls a ride part of the way because they had been staying at one of the hostels and we had extra room. This time it was only a 10 hour ride, so it wasn't as bad. When we got back to the border we were again harassed by those men with the money exchange, but at least this time we weren't scammed! I'd have to say that overall it was a very successful easter trip. I'd go back to Guatemala in a heartbeat!